Written by Michael Vass
I had the chance to enjoy a wonderful meal recently at Maxwell & Dunnes in Plainview Long Island with 2 friends of mine. My friends had been to the restaurant previously and assured me of the quality of the restaurant. I was somewhat skeptical, not because of my friends tastes but because of my particular preferences when it comes to steakhouses. Few ever get my approval, even if others find them to be quite good.
Walking into the hotel where the restaurant is found you might be a bit thrown off. Upon entering you will see a bar directly in front of you and stairs leading to horserace betting on your left. For many the horse racing is the only reason to be here, and I am told that the sports book there is on par with most in Vegas or Atlantic City. But the reason my friends and I had gone there took us into the bar and immediately to our right.
Once you enter the restaurant proper, you get an immediate feeling of 1930’s New York City. The tall ceilings and wide space accentuate the area. There is amble elbow room at each table, which is a nice change from the often crowded conditions in many NYC restaurants. The whole dining area is done in a tan and dark brown, which combined with the soft low lighting give a comfortable feel to the restaurant. Even at 6:30, just prior to the Christmas holiday, with office parties and revelers in the bar, the restaurant is quite calm and subdued.
While the impending holiday may have been a factor, the crowd never filled the restaurant. In fact during my meal there was never more than 1/3 of capacity in the area, and my friends mentioned this is not overly unusual. The difference compared to say Smith & Wolensky or Peter Lugers is both dramatic and welcome.
There isn’t much to say about the dinnerware, seats, tablecloth or much else aside from the meal. It’s all somewhat plain and common. The money was not spent on these items, as can be seen at a glance. Again I found that to be good things as far too many establishments seek to gratify the eyes of diners and fail miserably in the real reason for being there, the food. I will note that one thing did annoy me a bit. That is the base of the tables themselves. They are somewhat awkward, being raised slightly and wider than the single column supporting the table. It’s also worth noting that nothing in the restaurant is cheap. Lifting the table cloth and looking at the tabletop you will not the marble top and decent wood work. It’s just the base I found mildly annoying.
Moving on to the wait staff, I am pleased to say they are personable and knowledgeable. All tended to be quite younger than what you might expect at many other establishments of similar nature. This is not a negative though, other than the designer glasses that one waiter wore. They were quite glaring and gaudy to me, but I have noticed they are quite popular among young men and women. But that’s a personal preference, and in no way impeded the ability of our waiter in attending to our needs.
The selection at Maxwell & Dunnes includes several types of steaks and seafood. We had a choice that night that included Swordfish, lobster tail, and several other seafood choices. For my friends and me, we focused on the steak selections.
As for the main meal, any reservations and imperfections were more than made up for. My friends and I are all fans of good steaks. We ordered the King Filet Mingon, and the “Cowboy Cut” Prime Rib Eye. My rib eye was medium-rare. We had a Praxis merlot with the meal.
The first thing you notice when your meal arrives at the table is the portion size. It is ample. In fact I would say a large and generous cut. Compared to the more widely known New York steakhouses you will note that you are receiving more for the money.
Now you might question that this is because you are being given a lower quality of meat. Thankfully that is not the case. This cut easily compares to that found in Ben Benson’s and the other Manhattan restaurants. Beyond the size of the cuts of meat is the question of taste. This is the ultimate determination of quality and where any meal is worth finishing, or the restaurant is worth returning too.
My rib eye was tender, cutting quite easily. The steak was cooked exactly to my standards, which is a nice change as often medium-rare steaks can be a bit overcooked. The seared steaks were lightly spiced, but enough to catch the flavor on the tongue immediately. But as I mentioned it was a light flavor, not taking away from the steak but enhancing it. This combination of flavors required no steak sauce, or other addition or cover to the taste. I can think of little better description or compliment than to say the steak itself needed nothing more.
In fairness I will note that while the portion size, was generous, the sides were not. To give you an idea, I can easily finish a 24 oz Prime Rib steak and have room to spare for a baked potatoe, dessert, and of course wine with the meal. The “Cowboy Cut” was enough to fill me up, and that is a good thing as the mashed potatoes, and broccoli rabe we had as side dishes were barely enough to color the plates, in my opinion. Obviously they were not intended to be the focus of the meal, but if you preferred the smaller Kansas rib eye or any of the fish based meals, you may well be disappointed in the sides.
Once the meal was over, another benefit of Maxwell & Dunnes was available. That is the fact that there is a cigar room on premises. Merely crossing the restaurant, and through the bar area again to the other side and you enter the cigar room. In there you will find several tables (without the tablecloths) and multiple television screens. Most of the televisions will be set on horse racing, for the sports book that was mentioned beforehand. But there are 2 massage chairs available, and a selection of cigars.
I am not knowledgeable about cigars, so I will not try to ascertain how good the selection is. I will note that there are several available. And smoking on premises, in the cigar room is allowed. For those that HATE going outside in the winter to smoke, and wish to sit back with a good scotch while smoking after a good meal this is a huge benefit. Virtually no other place in NYC or the state now allow this, so I’m sure many will find that option palatable.
The last item to note is the cost. The dining experience is completely comparable to some of the top steakhouses found in Manhattan. The price though is lower. While the sides seems to be universally about $7 each no matter where you go, at Maxwell & Dunnes you will be able to get a better portion steak for just under $50. Add to that the décor, room to dine with comfort, lack of crowds, quality and the cigar room and that price is beyond paltry.
I recommend this restaurant to anyone that might find themselves in the Plainview, Long Island area, or just looking for a change from the bustle of NYC.
